Restaurant Reviews
Restaurant Revamp
Two years ago, I wrote a couple of paragraphs about a new wine bar at Southside Park called Betty.
Here was a comfortable and cute place for a bottle of wine, package of macaroni or quick bite. Two years and an ownership change later, Betty’s a must-visit destination.
The revamped Betty is more than a wine bar. Led by Chris Barnum-Dann, chef at Michelin-starred Localis, Betty serves breakfast, lunch and dinner with approachable, unpretentious, satisfying style.
A local wine bar should offer vino from around California, plus global labels. Betty is far more ambitious. To call it a wine bar discounts its range.
Filipino Flavors
Joanne Suavillo and her husband Ray have run The Lumpia Truck for more than five years. Their new restaurant, Spoon and Fork, is a grab-and-go spot on Broadway that serves some of the most flavorful dishes in town.
The Suavillo’s restaurant is new. Yet the food and service act like they’ve been open for years. In a way, they have.
“We’re still figuring out a few things with staffing,” Ray Suavillo tells me. “But we’ve been running the truck for years and could turn over 1,000 plates without batting an eye.”
World Affair
Peruvian cuisine, a triumph of fusion cooking, is having a moment. Chicha Peruvian Kitchen Midtown puts those global flavors center stage.
Chicha opened last summer, taking over from Pronto, a fast casual Italian concept. Chicha’s vibe is young and fresh. The funky hitch of Cumbia songs and the sway of salsa tunes play over the hi-fi. Service is attentive and friendly.
It’s a sit-down restaurant that feels more casual than it actually is. Decorations are cheeky. Murals of jungle cats and haunting female gazes stare out along one wall. Souvenir statues of llamas and bulls, brightly painted and delightful, sit on shelves.
Yet at Chicha, the napkins are linen. Every dish comes elegantly presented.
Peruvian cooking brings together influences from around the world. The indigenous culture has always been deft with the use of seafood, beans, squash and ever-present potatoes.
Tiny Delight
Juno’s Kitchen, the standout sandwich shop in East Sacramento, is a puzzle. Nearly invisible from the street, the postage-stamp sized spot thrives after almost 14 years in business.
Through pandemic shutdowns and economic cycles, this little eatery proves that a commitment to excellence and ingredients pays off.
I looked back on my coverage of Juno’s in 2011, when Mark Helms and Susan Vasques opened their kitchen. I was blown away by the bold flavors and craftsmanship at such an unimposing lunchroom.
I cringe now at the writing. I overused “outstanding“ and “amazing.” But my feelings haven’t changed. Helms and Vasques still produce exceptionally crafted food that goes far beyond grab-n-go.
Raise A Pint
In 1975, Bill and Denise Dalton opened an English-style pub at 10th and R streets. The building was a warehouse and factory, more than 60 years old, fronted by bricks with high ceilings.
It was an unlikely setting, a traditional English pub in an industrial part of town.
Fifty years later, Fox & Goose Public House is a permanent fixture. The pub helped launch music careers, political careers and hospitality careers. It inspired convivial evenings of laughter and friendship for generations.
Named after Bill Dalton’s hometown pub in Yorkshire, Fox & Goose is more than a good bar, more than one of the city’s best breakfast spots. The Goose’s dedication to community, arts and Downtown is exceptional.