Restaurant Reviews
Taste Of The Islands
Hawaiian cuisine, with emphasis on fresh fish, bright flavors and tropical attitudes, is a growing part of the food landscape. Two new outposts feature a taste of the islands and make for fine casual eating.
Make Fish Market, a grab-and-go restaurant, focuses on Hawaii’s most recognizable culinary export, poke. Unlike most poke places, Make Fish features more traditional Hawaiian preparations that need a little time to marinate and come together.
Make Fish delivers poke bowls and something novel: the sushi burrito. Imagine a sushi roll with all the ingredients on the inside and about four times the size of your standard sushi roll. It’s stuffed with rice and poke and sauce and marinated seaweed salad and more.
Double Delight
The term “beloved” gets thrown around too much with small businesses. Lou’s Sushi and Vic’s Ice Cream earned it.
Lou Valente worked 30 years behind local sushi counters. Regional publications called him the best in town a decade ago. But disagreements with partners closed his restaurants.
Now Valente is back. His new place, next to Low Brau at the MARRS building in Midtown, lets him sling his boundary-breaking hand rolls and present a phenomenal cocktail program developed by his Low Brau partners.
Burger Stop
Scott Ostrander and Paul DiPierro bring a cutting edge to Origami Asian Grill, their East Sacramento favorite. With a new enterprise, Gami Burger, the duo rolls out a different formula.
Focusing on the familiar and getting two separate locations up and running fast, the Gami team is already dishing out comfortable favorites.
Ostrander and DiPierro started Origami Asian Grill in 2018. They took Michelin-star know-how and applied it to dishes such as Sichuan fried chicken and ramen. The fried chicken is tops in my book.
During the pandemic, restaurants adapted or declined. Origami adapted, occasionally featuring a Gami Burger pop-up. The meal hit the spot with diners seeking consolation. Burger pop-ups became one of Origami’s most popular pandemic-era productions.
Masterfully Mediterranean
Eight years ago, Allora was a new thing. Deneb Williams and Elizabeth-Rose Mandalou put together a fine-dining concept in a town where fine dining was thin. In the years since, Allora stayed true to its roots and found a restrained and beautiful approach to everything it does.
At Allora, every element feels special and curated. Every glass, every plate, every ingredient, every bottle of wine, every interaction. A night at Allora is a special thing not to be missed.
Like many fine-dining restaurants, Allora has a tasting menu where diners select three, four or five courses. I love the four-course option with appetizer, pasta, main and dessert paired with a novel European wine.
Artistic Ambitions
hu Mai, the new restaurant by Chef Billy Ngo, excites on every level. The space pops, the dishes wow. With casual dining and take-out dominating restaurant openings these days, this elegant spot stands out.
Ngo is a force with three award-winning Japanese restaurants: KRU Contemporary, Kodaiko Ramen & Bar and Fish Face Poke Bar. Ngo’s lineage, however, is Vietnamese and Chinese. Chu Mai celebrates that lineage. It celebrates Ngo’s mother and the Asian American culinary experience.