“This tastes like vacation,” my wife says as she takes the first bite. It does. Everything about Octopus Baja, the new Mexican fusion restaurant in Midtown, feels like a step away from the ordinary, a mile from the everyday.
Octopus Baja is the latest from restaurateur Ernesto Delgado. Other sites include Tequila Museo Mayahuel, Mesa Mercado in Carmichael and Sal’s Tacos in West Sacramento.
Having eaten at most of these establishments, I can say Delgado’s businesses share the same DNA: mix familiar with creative, traditional with modern, and do it with exceptional service.
Octopus Baja is a happy place. Music is happy, servers are happy, even the decor is happy. The brightness of the drinks, brightness of the dishes and brightness of the setting sun over Sutter’s Fort provides a joyous, lighthearted atmosphere.
Yes, it’s like being on vacation. Even for people not familiar with the food and culture of Baja California, Octopus Baja transports the sensibilities of our state’s southern neighbor. The food and vibe feel far removed from the streets of Midtown.
Not long ago, this small concrete block building at 28th and K streets was a Blimpie sandwich shop. (It was the only Blimpie I ever saw.) When the sandwich shop shuttered, various businesses were proposed but none took hold.
The busy corner stood idle and forlorn until March, when Delgado and crew opened Octopus Baja.
Today the corner is alive with vivid blue walls and striped umbrellas. Inside, the bar is backed by fish-scale tile in a dozen shades of blue. Murals of sea creatures, each the size of an economy car, decorate the walls.
Soft lights surrounded by Mobius strips of wicker hang over every table. Even oafish writers knocking their heads on the hanging lamps can’t diminish the cheerfulness.
Seafood dominates the menu. The mahi-mahi aguachile is the bite to begin with and get your bearings. A punchy mix of mahi-mahi, seaweed, avocado and serrano chilies create an intense introduction to the meal.
Next, try the octopus. My rule is if the dish features in the restaurant’s name, order it. You can’t lose. This dish just reinforces the rule. Braised octopus served next to crumbled chorizo, mango and avocado purée is a winner. It’s as tender and flavorful a bite of octopus as I’ve ever enjoyed.
Dessert is no afterthought. The butter cake especially impresses. A crumbed brown butter cake features raspberry purée and mango gel topped with a dollop of pistachio ice cream. You’ll crave it.
For many travelers, nothing tastes like vacation more than an idealized cocktail. The bar focus is tropical and indulgent. With a concentration on mezcal, tequila and rum, the bar puts out sophisticated yet fun party drinks that taste like lounging near the ocean under an umbrella with your feet in the sand. The coconut-pineapple smash is my favorite.
Octopus Baja’s sister restaurant, Octopus Peru, opened in April across from Cesar Chavez Plaza and another Delgado establishment, La Cosecha. It focuses more on Peruvian preparations with an eye toward fusion cooking.
With reasonable prices (cheaper than a flight to Cabo) and a winning feel, Octopus Baja is a one-night vacation to check out.
Octopus Baja is at 2731 K St.; (916) 754-2172.
Greg Sabin can be reached at saceats@gmail.com. Follow us on Facebook and Instagram: @insidesacramento.
