There may be no bigger advocate for Sacramento’s place in the culinary landscape than Patrick Mulvaney. His passion for the region’s food carries weight.
“The first question people ask is my opinion on any of a number of culinary questions,” he says. “But the second one should definitely be about the Sacramento region. It should be about what’s going on at UC Davis. It should be about what’s going on with the farmers throughout the region. It should be about what’s going on at the Capitol.”
If Mulvaney sounds like a professional advocate, it’s because he is one.
More than advocating for the town he calls home, Mulvaney fights for causes such as feeding hungry children and improving school lunches.
You’re as likely to find him at the state Capitol or in Washington as you are in the kitchen of his restaurant, Mulvaney’s B&L.
Coming to Sacramento in 1991 and opening B&L in 2006, Mulvaney has become the face of the city’s farm-to-fork identity.
His dedication to local farmers, ranchers, growers and artisans allows him and his team to promote the region’s food bounty. Through that advocacy, he’s helped other restaurants and farmers rise.
His restaurant receives acclaim from many organizations that hand out awards. Mulvaney’s drive, dedication and vision—along with his kitchen talents—are recognized as singular.
These days, executive chef John Trujillo and CEO Taryn Beltz run the day-to-day details at Mulvaney’s B&L. They produce dishes and dining experiences that extend Mulvaney’s legacy for excellence.
Seasonal focus shines in dishes such as corn-filled ravioli with wild mushrooms and spinach. Hand-cut tagliatelle with California asparagus, peas and a pistachio cream is delicious.
But both dishes will probably be off the menu when you read this. A few year-round favorites remain—think smoked salmon and Irish brown bread. Otherwise, the menu moves with the seasons.
The wine list is a study in strong choices. Bottles from Sonoma and Amador sit alongside standouts from Sicily and Alsace.
From sommelier to server, host to manager, Mulvaney’s B&L exudes casual confidence. Neither stuffy nor pretentious, every staff member treats their job with care and a nonchalance that makes for convivial dining of the highest caliber.
The bar, previously a four-seater in the back of the restaurant, has moved across the alley and now seats a convivial six, serving small bites.
Check out the B&L bar in August when it features calamari to match the installation of a giant squid sculpture at 19th and L streets, part of the second Saturday art celebration.
With Trujillo and Beltz at the controls, Mulvaney has time to bring younger generations into advocacy roles.
“Chefs are some of the most trusted people in our society,” he says. “What’s a more trusting act than asking someone to feed you?”
His goal is to train younger chefs and restaurateurs to make their voices heard.
“Whether it’s about seafood sustainability, regenerative farming or better school cafeterias, the folks in white coats can be great voices for their causes,” he says.
Mulvaney is a driving force in bringing the Terra Madre Americas event to town. Originally a gathering in Italy to celebrate traditional cooking and production methods, the American edition will be a three-day celebration and symposium with renowned chefs, musical acts and international producers. Save the dates: Sept. 26–28.
“It’ll give us a great chance to include those who don’t always have a presence at these types of events,” Mulvaney says.
He’s excited to bring the world to Sacramento. Just like he brings Sacramento to the world.
Mulvaney’s B&L is at 1215 19th St.; mulvaneysbl.com; (916) 441-1771.
For information on Terra Madre Americas, visit terramadreusa.com.
Greg Sabin can be reached saceats@gmail.com. Follow us on Facebook and Instagram: @insidesacramento.
