Masterfully Mediterranean

Masterfully Mediterranean

Eight years ago, Allora was a new thing. Deneb Williams and Elizabeth-Rose Mandalou put together a fine-dining concept in a town where fine dining was thin. In the years since, Allora stayed true to its roots and found a restrained and beautiful approach to everything it does.

At Allora, every element feels special and curated. Every glass, every plate, every ingredient, every bottle of wine, every interaction. A night at Allora is a special thing not to be missed.

Like many fine-dining restaurants, Allora has a tasting menu where diners select three, four or five courses. I love the four-course option with appetizer, pasta, main and dessert paired with a novel European wine.

Artistic Ambitions

Artistic Ambitions

hu Mai, the new restaurant by Chef Billy Ngo, excites on every level. The space pops, the dishes wow. With casual dining and take-out dominating restaurant openings these days, this elegant spot stands out. 

Ngo is a force with three award-winning Japanese restaurants: KRU Contemporary, Kodaiko Ramen & Bar and Fish Face Poke Bar. Ngo’s lineage, however, is Vietnamese and Chinese. Chu Mai celebrates that lineage. It celebrates Ngo’s mother and the Asian American culinary experience.

Piping Hot

Piping Hot

Two recent coffee additions serve more than coffee. Zoe Coffee & Tacos pairs excellent dishes from Mexico and El Salvador with traditional coffee shop fare. The Coco Cafe draws on its Thai roots. Both expand what coffee shops can be.

Zoe Coffee & Tacos, opened in June 2024, is a fantastic little shop tucked into a corner of Poverty Ridge in Midtown.

A stone’s throw from the construction site where The Sacramento Bee stood, this tiny spot makes the most of its footprint. Once, it was part of the Bee’s delivery truck garage.

Owner and chef Josue Acosta recalls his Salvadoran roots to make excellent pupusas, tacos and more.

Father Knows best

Father Knows best

Opening a new restaurant called Stepdad’s on Father’s Day is cheeky. It’s also fun. And fun is what Stepdad’s owner Tyler Williams is all about.

“Getting the doors open on any new project is a lot of work, takes a lot of people and requires a lot of compromises,” he tells me. “But once you get the doors open, it’s time to have fun. And that’s my favorite part.”

Williams, his wife Melissa Williams and chef Oliver Ridgeway are the ownership team at Stepdad’s in Land Park.

You may know Oliver Ridgeway from his Michelin-recognized restaurant, Camden Spit & Larder. His reputation is sterling, and his ability to highlight local farm-to-fork bounty while staying true to his English roots says everything about his ability as a chef.

Perfect Aim

Perfect Aim

Chef Brad Cecchi and his team at Canon have six mentions in Michelin guides. It’s easy to see why. Canon is an elegantly casual dining room that highlights every ingredient in the enterprise, whether those ingredients are on the plate, in the glass or part of the exceptional service.

Opened in 2017, Canon began as a strange room in a strange place. Almost invisible near Stockton Boulevard, the vibe was different. Experiments with dim sum-style delivery and adventures in fermentation came and went. Now Canon is among the city’s best restaurants.

The feel of Canon’s dining room is modern—a big departure from the surroundings. The stark, industrial nature of 34th Street camouflages what lies within.

Even Better

Even Better

Selland Hospitality Group is a juggernaut on the restaurant scene, from grab-and-go to Michelin stars. Most popular among the collection are Sellands Neighborhood Cafe and Bar.

With locations at H Street and Broadway, and another in El Dorado Hills, the casual restaurants combine high-end cooking and cafe accessibility.

But times change. While the food at Sellands stays consistent and delightful, the style and look of the Broadway and H Street locations have leveled up.