Opening a new restaurant called Stepdad’s on Father’s Day is cheeky. It’s also fun. And fun is what Stepdad’s owner Tyler Williams is all about.
“Getting the doors open on any new project is a lot of work, takes a lot of people and requires a lot of compromises,” he tells me. “But once you get the doors open, it’s time to have fun. And that’s my favorite part.”
Williams, his wife Melissa Williams and chef Oliver Ridgeway are the ownership team at Stepdad’s in Land Park.
You may know Oliver Ridgeway from his Michelin-recognized restaurant, Camden Spit & Larder. His reputation is sterling, and his ability to highlight local farm-to-fork bounty while staying true to his English roots says everything about his ability as a chef.
Tyler Williams comes from a bar background, having been part of saloons that make an impression. His Midtown projects, Tank House BBQ & Bar and Jungle Bird, are great examples of barbecue and tiki bar, respectively.
For Williams and Ridgeway, Stepdad’s was an opportunity to do something closer to home. They both live near the restaurant. Williams considers it more family oriented than previous projects.
“This is the first restaurant I’ve opened in my own neighborhood. It feels like inviting the community to my personal clubhouse,” he says. “I feel like I see neighbors coming in every day. It made sense for this place to be more family oriented, serving elevated tavern food.”
The description fits. With Ridgeway’s vision and the steady hand of Jess Taylor in the kitchen, the food arrives at an expert level.
Seasonal flavors stick out, like pork schnitzel with apple slaw. It’s one of the best schnitzels I’ve ever had, a pork cutlet pounded thin and big as a dinner plate, exquisitely fried and crispy. The seasoning shines with every bite. The punchy apple slaw cuts through the richness of the pork.
Simple-sounding bites, including deviled eggs and poutine, are made with such skill as to be highlights instead of afterthoughts.
Casual fare, such as burgers, fried chicken sandwiches and fish and chips, stand out not because they look like Michelin-worthy dishes, but because they taste like it.
“Don’t get too used to anything,” Williams says. “Oliver is such a farm-to-fork guy, I don’t think he’s gonna be able to keep himself from rethinking the menu every season. “
Stepdad’s opened in June, and Williams and Ridgeway are taking things slow. At first, they offered dinner just a few nights a week. Then Sunday brunch arrived. Next came lunch and happy hour.
“Now that we’re a full-fledged, five-day-a-week place, we can start doing the special things,” Williams says.
Williams has plenty of ideas. “Britpop Brunch” is a celebration of all things British, combining Ridgeway’s love of bands, such as Oasis, with his fondness for full English breakfast.
Christmas season will be filled with events, including brunch with Santa on Dec. 14.
Stepdad’s on Freeport Boulevard, built prior to WWII, has housed many restaurants. The last two, Dad’s Kitchen and Mum’s, started a naming trend.
When trying to come up with a new name for this enterprise, Williams threw out the idea of Stepdad’s. It was whimsical and nobody was really serious about it.
When Melissa filed for permits, the restaurant needed a name. She jotted down Stepdad’s as a placeholder. It stuck.
Stepdad’s is at 2968 Freeport Blvd; (916) 330-1628; stepdads916.com.
Greg Sabin can be reached at saceats@gmail.com. Previous reviews can be found and shared at InsideSacramento.com. Follow us on Facebook and Instagram: @insidesacramento.
