In place of an Irish pub, a sophisticated Mediterranean restaurant has emerged. Field-N-Flame Midtown, open since March, took over de Vere’s Irish Pub with an extensive remodel. What had been a convivial, rustic spot is now an elegant, cosmopolitan dining room.
The 1500 block of L Street has seen significant turnover since the pandemic. The block was once known for pubby good times, drinking at de Vere’s or the Public House, noshing pub grub and catching whatever game was on TV. Now the stretch is home to impressive dining.
David English’s delightful Juju, a cocktail bar and small bite room, holds down the block’s west end. An upscale taqueria is moving into the old Public House at 16th Street. Field-N-Flame shores up the middle.
A former party block is now more professional, cultured and better suited to clientele coming and going to Safe Credit Union Performing Arts Center or the adjacent convention halls.
Drawing on a Mediterranean menu, with emphasis on Turkey, Greece and the Levant, Field-N-Flame brings impressive flavor and beautiful plating to a familiar cuisine.
The interior is anything but familiar. Reimagining the former pub, the Field-N-Flame team took a cozy drinking space, heavy with dark woods and frosted glass, and turned it into something swanky.
High ceilings make the space feel limitless. A mural of Cybele, Anatolian mother goddess, blends ancient Greek traditions with socialist realism to stunning effect. It takes up nearly one entire wall and catches the attention of passersby.
Field-N-Flame’s bar, with a dizzying range of potables, brings together big city intensity with communal capacity. Wines from around the world—from Italy and Spain to California—fill a solid wine list. The 20-foot-tall liquor cabinet holds enough spirits to confuse a mixologist. And an impressive lineup of mostly local beers creates an enjoyable spot to hang.
The menu is a fun exploration of Mediterranean cuisine with local California touches. A small plate of skewered octopus is a treat served over a spinach and zucchini cream and finished with a drizzle with chili oil. The octopus, treated with care by the kitchen, is tender with just enough char to let you know that fire was involved.
Another treat that makes me happy is grilled halloumi cheese. The springy, dense cheese stands up to the grill without melting. When served marinated in orange atop a salad of peaches, tomatoes and cucumbers, it’s hard to beat.
Of the mains, many lead toward Italy. The whole grilled branzino, served with arugula salad and charred lemons, feels like you’re dining on the banks of the Adriatic. Shed your fear of fish bones and skin and dig in. If you can’t smell branzino on your fingers the next day, you’re not doing it right.
Evocative in the Mediterranean category is the half rack of lamb cooked to order and served with Bulgar rice, chard tomatoes and a smoky eggplant purée. This is not California cuisine. It’s Mediterranean splendor.
Field-N-Flame continues to evolve. Lunch is coming into focus. Events such as Thursday night jazz and Sunday football specials extend the vibe beyond upscale dining. I’m excited to see what comes next.
Field-N-Flame Midtown is at 1521 L St.; fieldnflame.com; (916) 497-8911.
Greg Sabin can be reached at saceats@gmail.com. Follow us on Facebook and Instagram: @insidesacramento.
