Flying High

Airport mixes local, big brands to feed travelers

By Gabrielle Myers
September 2024

With captive audiences, airports tend to offer generic food and drinks created in central kitchens not specific to their region. They make us feel we are nowhere and everywhere.

As the farm-to-fork capital, it’s fitting that Sacramento International Airport tries to reflect the community’s agricultural bounty and legacy.

Local emphasis began in 2011, when Terminal B opened with two restaurants linked to Downtown establishments, Esquire Grill and Cafeteria 15L. A makeover at Terminal A added more local hospitality names in 2015.

Cappuccino at Temple, Carrot Cake at Café Bernardo, photo courtesy Café Bernardo. Tacos at Nixtaco, Smash Burger at Midtown Spirits, Calzone at One Speed Pizza, Chicken Burger at BAWK!, Photo courtesy BAWK!

The original Esquire Grill closed in 2019, but Cafeteria 15L continues to bustle near the state Capitol. Now the airport is ready to expand its regional restaurant connections.

Nixtaco, Bawk!, Café Bernardo, Magpie, Temple Coffee and Midtown Spirits will soon join local farm-to-fork operations that inspire airport cuisine. But national names aren’t being frozen out.

Andrew Durkee, airport concessions manager, says the regional emphasis was encouraged by county airports director Cindy Nichol, who arrived from Portland’s airport in 2018.

The concessions team surveyed travelers to learn the best approaches to food and beverage service. The results showed a locals-only strategy needs a little global help.

“We found quite a mix of things that people would like,” Durkee says. “They want more of a national fast-food brand presence than we currently have in order to represent more accessible options. There is some request for still representing some nationally branded coffee. What our community wants isn’t always 100% local.”

Surveys showed airport travelers seek greater emphasis on healthy options, whether local or from big brands.
“We plan to offer a much more thoughtful mix of concepts,” Durkee says.

The challenge of satisfying a variety of travelers is daunting. The airport serves 13 million passengers each year, so diversity in food and beverage operations is essential for positive travel experiences.

My frustrations with airport food are the lack of healthy options and inflated prices. I don’t want to pay $20 or more for subpar, unhealthy food. That’s why I tend to pack my own meals when passing through airports.

While we can’t expect airport food options landing at under $20 per meal, it’s nice to know local and health-minded restaurants will have a presence in Sacramento terminals.

Sustainability is another feature at Sacramento International. Close to 35% of the airport’s electricity is produced from 35 acres of solar panels around the facility. The airport generates 15.5 million kilowatt-hours per year.

Airport buses and other vehicles are transitioning to mostly zero emissions from compressed natural gas. Buildings and parking area lights have converted to LED. Sustainability efforts are critical as the community reduces its carbon footprint.

Between food, beverages and energy, the community and airport are flying in a positive direction.

“We’re serving more locations now,” Durkee says. “We added about 11 new nonstop flights in 2023 and we plan to add more this coming year.”

Gabrielle Myers can be reached at gabriellemyers11@gmail.com. Her latest book of poetry, “Break Self: Feed,” is available for $20.99 from fishinglinepress.com. Follow us on Facebook and Instagram: @insidesacramento.