Opened in 2017, Canon began as a strange room in a strange place. Almost invisible near Stockton Boulevard, the vibe was different. Experiments with dim sum-style delivery and adventures in fermentation came and went. Now Canon is among the city’s best restaurants.
The feel of Canon’s dining room is modern—a big departure from the surroundings. The stark, industrial nature of 34th Street camouflages what lies within.
Canon has a high ceiling with pinewood slats and delicate chandeliers reminiscent of hachiya persimmons hung out to dry. A white marble bar top perches in front of a 20-foot-high liquor library. An open kitchen spits out noise and joy while seasonal ingredients greet fire.
Canon is what happens when thoughtful, modern design and creative California cooking get together. It’s where guests arrive in suits and gowns and T-shirts and shorts.
You’ll find ingredients you’ve never heard of. Or order an off-the-menu cheeseburger (but please ask nicely).
At Canon, rules are meant to be broken.
An instructive dish on the summer menu was called “Canary Melon.” A small china bowl appeared on the bar filled with a dish unlike any I’ve experienced.
Long, wide, paper-thin strips of melon dressed with red curry and basil were unusual. Yet on a hot evening, it became a perfect refreshment.
The flavors hit me in the back of the eyeballs. The textures, built around the melon’s softness and toughness from center to rind, were exquisite.
Other dishes celebrated summer. A charred sweet corn salad was a celebration of corn piled over Manchego mousse and topped with watercress, hot sauce and lime aioli. A delicious departure from sweet Sloughouse corn on the cob.
Platters are shareable, too large for one person and too small for two. If you have the right people along, it works.
A platter of pan-seared halibut over a shishito pepper emulsion and topped with blue crab surprised and delighted. The crisp skin on the small chunks of halibut showed the kitchen’s patience and expertise.
The spirit is captured in Nate Cordero’s artwork on Canon’s west wall. The collage of plywood, shiny bits, cigarette packs and more is a stunning piece that demands inspection. It follows no rules and delights with elegance. That’s what Canon goes for every night.
Canon is at 1719 34th St.; canoneastsac.com; (916) 469-2433.
Greg Sabin can be reached at saceats@gmail.com. Follow us on Facebook and Instagram: @insidesacramento.
