Farm-to-Fork
Farm Direct
In Midtown, we can enjoy Capay Valley’s bounty without leaving our sycamore-lined streets.
The Yocha Dehe Wintun Tribe’s Séka Hills brand opened an olive oil, vinegar, honey and wine tasting room next to Ice Blocks.
“We’ve had eyes on a more urban location for a while,” says Jim Etters, Séka Hills director of land management. “Sacramento, especially Midtown, has a lot of people who are really interested in where their food comes from. We grow it, we process it, we package it and we take it to the consumer.”
The Midtown shop builds on the success of an original tasting room in the Yolo County town of Brooks. At the new store, I tasted six Capay Valley olive oils. From the mild arbequina to the buttery and delicate taggiasca, to the spicy and herbaceous picual, each oil is sustainably grown on land the Yocha Dehe Wintun are reassuming and caring for in traditional ways.
Field Of Dreams
On a clear morning at Goldbud Farms in Camino, after rains saturated the hilltop, we walked rows surrounded by peach, apple and pear trees. Branches bristled with rouge, white and faint pink blossoms.
Trees were building for summer’s fruit yield—a perfect balance of sugar, acid and soil.
Goldbud grows award-winning grapes and heirloom peaches, nectarines, plums and pluots. The farm also produces organic citrus, such as blood oranges, tango and owari satsuma mandarins. There are Meyer lemons and yuzus, pears and apples.
Natural High
Midtown Spirits thrives on local ingredients. Almonds come from Blue Diamond, citrus from Food Co-op, Valley marshmallow, teas and spices from Allspicery in East Sacramento. Dill pickle vodka is unfused with pickles from Stockton. Cold brew coffee liquor is made with San Francisco Bay Coffee, based in Lincoln.
Midtown is the city’s first distillery since prohibition. Founders Dave Abrahamsen and Jason Poole sell craft distilled vodkas, gins, rums, coffee liquor and barrel-aged negroni. Midtown includes a bar and restaurant.
A huge copper still behind glass invites customers to appreciate the distilling craft while they sip cocktails and slushes. The still uses glycol to cool instead of water, saving our most precious natural asset.
Hopped Up
Alaro Craft Brewery and gastropub expands the long history of Midtown microbreweries with a farm-to-fork emphasis.
In the old Rubicon brewery location on Capitol Avenue, owners Ray and Annette Ballestero built an elevated beer experience with Spanish-style tapas and small bites, along with classic pub offerings such as burgers, sandwiches, soups and salads.
At Alaro, the Ballesteros decided to “highlight classic beer styles.” While beer doesn’t always have a culture that connects with dining, the couple developed cohesive pairings between beer and food.
Alaro opened in June 2018 and became a favorite for its causal atmosphere, excellent food and award-winning beers.
Hyper Local
Revolution Winery & Kitchen embodies vine to bottle and farm to fork. The menu celebrates local fruit, breads, produce and wine grapes, all from within 100 miles of Midtown.
Chef-owner Gina Genshlea was raised on a sustainable farm in South Sacramento. She says her family “grew everything” they ate.
Childhood was filled with chestnuts, pecans, walnuts, olives, stone fruits, chickens, cows, pigs, goats, house-cured prosciutto and coppa, plus grapes and wine production.
With winemakers Colleen Clothier and Samuel Wharton, Revolution pulls the best local wine grapes. The crew crushes, ferments, ages and sells its wines in the heart of town.
The company uses some off-site storage, but most wine is produced and bottled on S Street.
Animal Farm
In golden light surrounded by fields of plump rice and recently harvested corn, beans and wheat, wildlife pecks on dinner.
This is Pleasant Grove Farms, 3,000 acres in the wetlands north of Sacramento. Owners Ed and Wynette Sills drive me around the parcels that comprise the farm.
The test of a healthy farm is the presence of wildlife. While this might seem counterintuitive, farmers who practice organic and regenerative agriculture try to create spaces where crops and other living beings thrive in harmony.