Juno’s Kitchen, the standout sandwich shop in East Sacramento, is a puzzle. Nearly invisible from the street, the postage-stamp sized spot thrives after almost 14 years in business.
Through pandemic shutdowns and economic cycles, this little eatery proves that a commitment to excellence and ingredients pays off.
I looked back on my coverage of Juno’s in 2011, when Mark Helms and Susan Vasques opened their kitchen. I was blown away by the bold flavors and craftsmanship at such an unimposing lunchroom.
I cringe now at the writing. I overused “outstanding“ and “amazing.” But my feelings haven’t changed. Helms and Vasques still produce exceptionally crafted food that goes far beyond grab-n-go.
Not much changes at Juno’s. Barely noticeable in the 3600 block of J Street, Juno’s is a blip a few doors down from convivial pub Bonn Lair. The dining area is a table or two on the sidewalk and handful to two-tops inside.
Fourteen years ago, there was talk of beer and wine and perhaps dinner service. Since then, Juno’s stuck with lunch and made the most of it.
The menu is tight and approachable. Sandwiches span the globe. A take on a Vietnamese banh mi with pork loin, pickled veggies and jalapeno pops with bright flavors. A pastrami sandwich with gruyere, braised cabbage, pickles and mustard is a masterpiece.
Robust vegetarian sandwiches are a delight. My favorite is membrillo. The sandwich features quince paste, Manchego cheese, arugula and olive oil. The fillings are on point and the sandwich acts as a star vehicle for Helms’ sourdough bread. The crusty, comforting loaf is baked daily in-house—a main ingredient behind Juno’s success.
A few entrees are available daily. Most take an Iberian approach. The pappardelle pasta, heavy with rock shrimp and garlic, is a tribute to Basque cooking.
Shrimp are chunky and tender, homemade pasta light but chewy. Broth, redolent with garlic, lemon and anchovy, is one of the finer things to dip bread into on this side of the Atlantic.
Juno’s fills a unique slot. It’s a neighborhood favorite and lunchtime destination. Much of the lunch rush comes from Mercy Hospital and nearby medical offices. Folks in scrubs wait in line next to locals in walking shorts.
When I think of the best sandwiches in town—Corti Brothers, Roxie Deli & Barbeque, Jaime’s Broadway Grille, Lefty’s Taproom—I think how lucky we are to have so many. It says something about the city’s taste and palate that Juno’s thrives through the decades.
My friend Ty had Juno’s cater his wedding. That’s the love and dedication people attach to this tiny sandwich shop. It’s more than an easy place to pick up lunch. It’s an exceptional institution of culinary delights, one of the quietest in town.
Juno’s is a place for simple things. Sandwiches, salads and the Spanish-based entrées Helms and his wife Vasques produce from their tiny kitchen are exceptional. I’m happy to revisit them 14 years later.
Juno’s Kitchen is at 3675 J St.; (916) 456-4522; junoskitchen.com.
Greg Sabin can be reached at saceats@gmail.com. Follow us on Facebook and Instagram: @insidesacramento.
