On Jan. 26, 2023, James Takashiba woke in the early morning to a fire notification from his alarm company. His family’s restaurant, Hana Tsubaki, was burning.
The fire department was on scene and quickly subdued the fire, but not before the kitchen suffered major damage.
For many longtime residents, Hana Tsubaki, a Japanese restaurant in East Sacramento, had been there forever. The butterfly roof and red and black paint stood out on J Street almost unchanged since 1978.
But that’s too simple. To keep a restaurant open for nearly 50 years, an operator must push through adversity. The Takashibas pushed hard.
Like most restaurateurs, the family pivoted when COVID-19 closed dining rooms in 2020. The family adopted a curbside pickup model and stayed afloat. When restrictions lifted, it seemed the worst had passed.
Then came the fire.
For longtime patrons and neighborhood regulars, the concern was palpable. Other classic eateries such as Sam’s Hof Brau succumbed to fire and never returned.
Eighteen months after the blaze, Hana Tsubaki reopened. With packed tables and unrestrained smiles, generations of fans are delighted.
To understand the experience at Hana Tsubaki is to appreciate a different time, an era before strip-mall sushi restaurants dotted the landscape and ramen shops were as ubiquitous as burger counters.
The dining room encourages relaxed, contemplative eating. The space is elegantly paneled in wood, with rice paper shoji screens covering the windows. From the ceiling hangs streamers of linen, ethereal and warm, creating a sense of a cozy cocoon.
I finally figured out the subdued atmosphere on my latest visit. Hana Tsubaki has no television. Flat screens seem obligatory in many modern Japanese restaurants, but the lack of screens in this classic room makes for serene dining.
What also sets Hana Tsubaki apart is its expansive menu. While sushi is present, it’s not the focus.
Family recipes for sesame chicken and broiled mackerel with teriyaki sauce take top honors. Simple and exact preparations create special dishes at Hana Tsubaki. Sauces sing. Presentations thrive on minimal flourishes.
Whether preparing sesame chicken, tempura shrimp or tonkatsu pork cutlet, the kitchen’s deep fryer performs at impressive levels. Dishes so simple and common bring the gift of familiarity.
But these fried delicacies are anything but common. They balance between crispy exteriors and moist middles.
Udon noodle bowls are comforting and homey with thick, chewy noodles and rich broth. Hot pots (nabemono) include classics such as sukiyaki, a sweet and savory stew with sliced beef and plenty of veggies.
The sushi menu is no afterthought. If anything has changed in Hana Tsubaki’s four-plus decades, it’s the expansion of sushi to fit modern tastes and expectations. Newer sushi styles with fish, fish eggs, fried bits and sauce are well executed.
The sushi bar shines with small traditional sushi dishes, nigiri and sashimi. A paper-thin piece of flounder (hirame), draped over a tangy morsel of sushi rice, topped with a dot of siracha and a single sliver of green onion is as good a bite as you will get at any local restaurant.
Recognizing classics in your own town can be hard. They feel as if they have always been there and will never leave. It’s with relief to say Hana Tsubaki is back—like it never left.
Hana Tsubaki is at 5006 J St.; (916) 456-2849; hanatsubakirestaurant.com.
Greg Sabin can be reached at saceats@gmail.com. Follow us on Facebook and Instagram: @insidesacramento.
