The term “beloved” gets thrown around too much with small businesses. Lou’s Sushi and Vic’s Ice Cream earned it.
Lou Valente worked 30 years behind local sushi counters. Regional publications called him the best in town a decade ago. But disagreements with partners closed his restaurants.
Now Valente is back. His new place, next to Low Brau at the MARRS building in Midtown, lets him sling his boundary-breaking hand rolls and present a phenomenal cocktail program developed by his Low Brau partners.
The menu is a delightful collection of sushi, sashimi and hand rolls. Hamachi Kama (broiled yellowfin collar), fried tofu with secret garlic sauce, Kara-age (Japanese-style fried chicken) and more Japanese favorites round out the menu.
Cocktails run creative to bonkers. A Japanese whiskey cocktail with miso honey or a martini cut with mushroom-washed vodka stand out. My favorite is an edgy number called Dirty Laundry, with rye, lemon juice, grenadine, elderflower and cucumber.
The concoction looks like water from dirty laundry. The flavors are punchy and bright, perfect for a warm night.
The vibe at Lou’s balances between industrial loft and warehouse speakeasy. A waterfall of houseplants draped over a wall of liquor bottles softens the concrete and glass. Lou works the fish in an aquarium-like glass room at the far end of the narrow space. It’s hip, loud and unpretentious.
After 20 years, the MARRS building has its strongest food lineup ever. Lou’s anchors one end, Michelin-blurbed Kin Thai Street Eatery holds down the other. The elegant Asian/Mexican fusion Omakase Por Favor fits in the middle.
More casual eats are found at Azul Mexican Food+Tequila Bar, Low Brau and Teneral Cellars. The MARRS building is a destination.
For celebrations, let’s head south to Land Park. Vic’s Ice Cream, which debuted in 1947, is open after a year-long refresh under new owners. With lines out the door and joy in customer’s hearts, Vic’s is better than ever.
Black and white tile floors, striped wallpaper, flavors listed in white plastic letters on a black cushioned board all hold true. Neighborhood teens serve up scoops and press hot dog sandwiches. Vinyl booths overlook Riverside Boulevard and Eighth Avenue.
What changed? I think the new Vic’s ice cream tastes a little sweeter, the flavors brighter.
Next door, an updated Brewbird Coffee+Creative is a gathering spot. Vic’s and Brewbird are delightful in their expressions of past and present, the 80-year-old ice cream parlor and minimalist third-wave coffee shop.
Vic’s corner is a magnet for locals. My wife and I found it a perfect destination for a post-sushi dessert. A night moving from Lou’s to Vic’s is tough to beat.
Lou’s Sushi is at 1050 20th St. Vic’s Ice Cream is at 3199 Riverside Blvd.; vicsicecream.com.
Greg Sabin can be reached at saceats@gmail.com. Follow us on Facebook, X and Instagram: @insidesacramento.
