Spring is an aphrodisiac. Soil and air temperatures warm and the seasonal clock prompts a stampede to nurseries. We fall in love with flowers, vegetables and pretty pots. It’s a time of purpose and joy.
Once paradise has been rescued from weeds, spring triumphs can overshadow impending disasters. Remember, gardens, like marriages, don’t respond well to neglect.
On the eve of our roasty-toasty summer months, enthusiasm and effort may begin to erode. Vacations loom. Hot weather discourages all but the most persistent. Time spent in the garden is reduced to, “Whenever I have time.”
Disappointment and frustration surface this time of year, provoked by pests, watering failures and extreme heat. Allow me to suggest a few simple tasks and strategies to bridge the pitfalls of summer.
Today, begin by walking among the plants. Do it daily, like walking the dog. A problem spotted early will avoid costly headaches later.
Scour leaves, stems and flowers for insect pests such as aphids, whiteflies and budworms. Peer under leaves and in areas of foliage that are discolored, chewed or exhibit webbing (spider mites). Use a magnifying glass if it helps.
A sticky substance on leaves is likely honeydew. It’s secreted by aphids, whiteflies and mealybugs. They can transmit viruses and feed on plant sap. In substantial numbers these pests can stunt growth, especially in young plants. In smaller numbers, they will do little noticeable damage.
When I spot aphids on rose buds, I slide them off with my thumb and forefinger. Wear a glove if you’re squeamish. A strong blast of water will dislodge soft-bodied pests. Pruning off infested and curled leaves can reduce the population.
Natural predators such as lady beetles, lacewings and hoverflies will control aphids, whiteflies and mealybugs. If all else fails and infestation is severe, insecticidal soaps and oils can be used.
Don’t mix your own concoctions. Buy non-chemical insecticidal soaps and oils. Homemade isn’t an exact science and can damage plants.
Avoid broad-spectrum insecticides. These kill good insects that help control pests. The more toxic insecticides should never be used on edible plants.
Visit the University of California Integrated Pest Management website (imp.ucanr.edu) for information on dealing with and identifying specific pests.
Watering plants in extreme heat isn’t an exact science. The amount of water needed depends on soil composition, plant species and microclimate. A microclimate is a specific garden area affected by nature (sunlight, soil type, wind) and man-made structures (buildings and so-called heat islands in urban areas).
Generally, newly planted trees and shrubs need more water than mature plants and require additional water for a year or two. Once the root system is established, back off the amount of water. Established trees, shrubs and ground covers do well with deep waterings every three or four weeks in dry months.
Vegetables and annuals in containers or raised beds may need daily water. Containers in direct late afternoon sun may need twice-a-day watering during the hottest days.
Mulching with bark, wood chips, straw or shredded leaves is highly recommended to help retain soil moisture and eliminate water-robbing weeds.
Check soil moisture with your fingers or a moisture meter. If containers are dripping substantial amounts of water from the bottom of the pot, reduce watering time.
Many areas have specific watering rules, based on days of the week and the hours residents can water landscapes with sprinklers. City residents should check cityofsacramento.gov. County residents should visit waterresources.saccounty.gov.
Occasionally, I hear gardeners boast they never use shade cloth or shade coverings in summer. Perhaps their gardens receive afternoon shade. Otherwise, providing afternoon shade is essential. We experience extreme heat, the type that scorches leaves and sunburns bark and vegetables.
Modest coddling can help avoid a dead, dying or incinerated garden. Plants, like people, blossom with attention.
Dan Vierria is a University of California Cooperative Extension Master Gardener for Sacramento County. He can be reached at masterg29@gmail.com. For answers to gardening questions, contact UCCE Master Gardeners at (916) 876-5338, email mgsacramento@ucanr.edu or visit sacmg.ucanr.edu. Follow us on Facebook, X and Instagram: @insidesacramento.
