Aiona brings together Mediterranean cooking, world-class beverages and a seasoned kitchen staff. Open since April, it already feels like an established part of the scene.
Aiona is the newest restaurant from sommelier Elizabeth-Rose Mandalou and her husband, Chef Deneb Williams. The couple is the force behind Allora in East Sacramento.
Compared to Allora’s fine dining, Aiona serves more approachable dishes focused on Mediterranean “live fire” cooking. Drawn from Spain, Portugal, Italy, Greece, the Levant and North Africa, the menu is compact but diverse enough for an upscale, casual lunch or three-course dinner that lasts deep into night.
This is shareable cuisine with plates of fire-roasted meats and vegetables. It’s communal food that looks rustic but arrives imbued with sophistication.
The restaurant feels huge. Housed at 13th and K streets, former site of Randy Paragary’s Esquire Grill, Aiona boasts high ceilings, soft surfaces and artwork. The room has a brilliantly conceived acoustic plan with subtle baffling and gentle surfaces that let neighbors converse in mild tones when the place is full.
The serving team makes sure no water glass goes empty, no order goes unheard. General Manager Li Chong, former manager and assistant sommelier at Allora, comes to your table and suggests wine at nearly any price point.
When we say we’re in the mood for “something weird,” her eyes light up. One of her favorite requests, she says.
She recommends a Spanish white with a bit of age. Almost like cider. Weird indeed. Also perfect, complementing each dish.
Risotto stands out. Al dente, decadent with cheese. Ingredients rotate through the seasons, peas in spring, corn in summer. I expect something autumnal for fall. It’s just enough to share but works as a single meal.
Fire roasting—the char of wood and lick of flame—is what Aiona is about. With an oven the size of an Airstream trailer, the restaurant revolves around fire. While you think of flames and meat as a perfect fusion, wood-roasted cauliflower steals the show.
Picture a head of cauliflower slathered in spices and aggressively wood roasted, served with almonds, yogurt, capers and raisins. The taste is at once ancient and modern, Europe and North Africa.
Sampling the dish, our party of four struggles to describe how blown away we are by the flavors. We check the menu to confirm. Yes, that’s cauliflower!
Wood-roasted branzino with preserved lemon is another winner. Fire-roasted beets with smoked farmers cheese, pistachio and citrus are delightful. The lamb and beef skewers with tzatziki are my favorite expression of meat and fire.
Don’t skip dessert. Executive Pastry Chef Chrissy Sievert works magic. Her date pudding with caramel is an eye-rolling indulgence. Her gelato is incredible.
The cooking at Aiona is top tier. Partner the kitchen and service with Aiona’s diverse wine list and you have a winning new restaurant.
Aiona is at 1213 K St.; (916) 790-3473; aionasacramento.com.
